A New Era of Intimate Elegance
Explore Alberta Ferretti’s Spring/Summer 2026 “In Confidence” collection at Milan Fashion Week under new creative direction. Discover themes of privacy, fluid silhouettes, refined draping, soft color palettes, and standout looks in this intimate, romantic show.
Designer Background & Creative Transition
Alberta Ferretti (born 2 May 1950) is an iconic Italian designer known for romantic, fluid, ethereal womenswear rooted in feminine elegance and finely crafted fabric work.
From 1981 until recently, Ferretti herself served as the creative voice of the brand that carries her name, overseeing its growth into a respected luxury house. In 2024 she stepped down from creative direction, passing the torch to Lorenzo Serafini, who had previously led Philosophy di Alberta Ferretti.
Serafini’s vision for Ferretti emphasizes intimacy, discretion, and a poetic modern romanticism, while preserving the brand’s heritage of draping, soft fabrics, and understated grandeur. In his debut collections, he has spoken about designing for a “woman who prefers privacy over display,” seeing discretion as the new luxury.
Thus, SS26 is not only a seasonal offering but a new chapter for the label — a recalibration of identity under new stewardship.
Milan Fashion Week SS26: The “In Confidence” Collection
Theme & Concept
Under Serafini’s direction, the SS26 collection was titled “In Confidence”, reflecting a philosophy that privacy is autonomy. In his own words, clothing should allow one to “talk freely, love freely, and live freely” — not to perform for an audience but to inhabit a private, intentional life. The collection taps into this quiet strength: garments designed to balance presence and reserve, intimacy and form.
The show narrative positions the modern hostess (the wearer) as someone who values subtle gestures, controlled reveal, and elegance without excess.
Moodboard & Color Palette
The palette is gentle, restrained, and quietly expressive. The show opened in cream tones that matched the runway carpet — a near-neutral background for the collection. From cream, the line shifts to blush pinks, pale mint, nude, soft mints, touches of orange and brown, culminating in leopard prints as a striking punctuation.
Serafini clearly dialed back heavy prints; instead, much of the visual interest comes from texture, drape, layering, and metallic accents.
Standout Design Features & Silhouettes
Draping, Fluidity & Soft Movement
- A central motif of the collection is draped gowns, caftans, kimonos, and cape-dresses — garments that wrap, float, and move with the body.
- Serafini describes many looks as being “slung across the physique like single pieces of fabric” — emphasizing how garments should envelop rather than constrict.
- The use of handkerchief hems, bias cuts, chiffon layering, and sheer panels contributes to a sense of airiness and transparency.
Structure & Tailoring Interplay
- While softness dominates, tailoring elements provide counterpoint: open jackets over vests or bra tops, pants in organza/linen blends, and structured pieces softened by drape.
- Capes, silken overshirts, and printed linens fall with a sculptural quality that grounds the fluid pieces.
Fabric & Texture
- Sheer organza, light linen, chiffon, viscose blends feature heavily to support movement and transparency.
- Metallic touches in gold or silver — receptors of light — appear at collars, waistlines, or collarbones, adding visual highlights without overpowering subtlety.
- Bold leopard spots printed on organza or pony-skin serve as one of the few strong pattern interventions toward the end of the line.
Footwear & Accessories
- Serafini opted for a grounded footwear selection: loafers, slippers, and thongs (flat, comfortable shoes) to reinforce the ethos of refined ease.
- Accessories (bags, jewelry) were treated minimally. The collection’s strength lies in detail over ornament — deliberate bijoux, compact bags, and light embellishments rather than heavy hardware.
Memorable Looks & Highlights
- Opening Cream Gown: A beautifully draped, neutral-tone gown that matched the runway carpets — epitomizing how the collection begins from a soft, almost invisible base.
- Blush & Mint Transitional Pieces: Soft pink or pale mint dresses with sheer layers catching light, offering a gentle shift in mood.
- Black Draped Gowns with Gold Accents: In contrast to the lighter tones, these looks anchor the collection, recalling classical silhouettes with flashes of metal at the waist or collarbone.
- Sheer Shirts & Pants Combinations: Looks that frame glimpses of the body via transparent layering, balancing modesty and revelation.
- Leopard Print Finale: The introduction of bold pattern — leopard spots on organza or pony skin — as a statement contrast to the otherwise soft, tonal collection.
Interpretation & Brand Implications
Intimacy over Exhibition
One of the most striking aspects of SS26 is how Ferretti/Serafini shift the value from spectacle to quiet presence. The message is that strength and elegance need not scream; they can speak in whispers.
The emphasis on a private, curated life — dressing for oneself, not for constant performance — resonates in today’s age of social media overexposure. Serafini frames privacy as a form of romanticism.
Continuity with Soft Romanticism
Although the creative director has changed, the brand lineage of soft femininity, drape, understated luxury continues. SS26 does not discard Ferretti’s hallmarks — instead, it filters them through a modern lens.
Minimalism as Power
As noted by commentators, the collection’s “minimalism becomes power” idea (i.e. doing more with less) is one of its strengths. The contrast between the neutral tones and the occasional gold or pattern pushes the idea that essentials can be forceful.
Commercial Wearability
Unlike extreme couture, many looks in this collection offer plausible wearability. Serafini makes clear he aims for dresses “you can actually live in” — not showpieces for a moment. This balance may help the brand appeal to clientele seeking elevated style with practicality.
Conclusion
Alberta Ferretti’s Spring/Summer 2026 “In Confidence” marks a deliberate, graceful pivot under Lorenzo Serafini’s creative direction. It’s a collection rooted in discretion, softness, and quiet strength. Through draping, translucency, refined neutrals, and sparse yet meaningful accents, Serafini presents a vision of luxury that is intimate over overt, presence over performance.
This show is more than a seasonal offering — it signals a new narrative for Ferretti: one in which elegance is redefined not by excess, but by the power of restraint. As the brand enters this new era, the SS26 collection likely sets the tone for future seasons — a balance between heritage, romanticism, and modern sensibility.
